


 This is the type of boat we were on: Skye 51' Ketch |
Manihi
This picture is of a portion of a little atol in the Tuamotu Island chain called Manihi. Half of the island chain is off limits to private boats because France uses it for nuclear testing among other things (That's where the famous Bikini Island is). Isn't that a shame?
Anyway, After visiting Hiva Oa, Nuka Hiva, and Oa Pu in the Marquesas Island chain, we moved on to the Tuamotus which is on the way to the Society Islands (where Tahiti is). As you can probably see from the picture Manihi is an atol, which is essentially formed from a island with a reef around it, where the island has sunk into the ocean and all that is left is the reef and a lagoon inside. It is a beautiful place, with crystal clear water, but very nasty from a sailors point of view.
1. Since it is just a reef, the tallest point on the island is the tallest palm tree - so it's very easy to miss when you are sailing by (or worse, run into).
2. There are typically only a few inlets into the atol, so the current in those passes can be very strong as the tides force water in and out. Basically, there are two times a day, when the tide changes, where the water is still enough to pass. Otherwise you better be in a speed boat. If you ever done any boating on a river, you know what I'm talking about.
3. As with most reefs, they are shallow. So the pass may only be 12-15 feet deep. Well when you are in a 51' sailboat where your keel (that's the think stickin down from the boat) draws 7' 6" (that means it sticks into the water 7' 6") - it can get pretty hairy.
Anyway, our visit to this beautiful island was very fun and relaxing except for the coming and going. When we arrive we had to manuever around a bunch of reef to get to the entrance. Once we got there we had timed it pretty well, the current had just started to flow into the atol, the same direction we were going. We figured this was okay and went for it. Everything went pretty well until our depth sounder started reading 12 . . . . . 11.5 . . . . 10.2 . . . . .8.5 . . . .
We thought for sure we were going to rip into our boat when we hit 7.8 - but somehow we managed to move into a slightly deeper path and avoid major damage.
When we left, it was a bit different. We were advised to wait for the tide to change, but since we came in with the tide, we figured it would be okay to go out with the tide to. Only in that direction, the current was so fast and swift we found it hard to maintain control of the boat. Also, the way the coral had formed in the pass created these almost river rapid like waves - very steep, and very unforgiving. With basically no control, we threw on the engine and barely powered our way into control and out - only to find later that I had not latched a forward hatch properly, and it basically flew open right as we were taking on a huge wave. Needless to say, my reputation wasn't the only thing wet on the boat. I was seriously in the dog house after that episode. |